An elephant crossed the floodplain as Rhino Africa Travel Expert Saskia van Dalen arrived at her first camp in Botswana. Beyond it, canvas tents sat beneath towering ebony trees, while the sounds of the Delta carried across the water. It was a fitting welcome to a journey that would challenge everything she thought she knew about the country. Having visited years earlier, Saskia returned to see the Okavango Delta through fresh eyes. What followed reshaped the way she thinks about one of Africa's most celebrated safari destinations – and why the greatest luxury in Botswana is the freedom to spend time with what you find.
One Delta, Three Camps
The Okavango Delta is often spoken of as though it were a single destination. In reality, it's a living mosaic. Permanent waterways weave between islands and floodplains, forests give way to open grasslands, and each concession offers its own window into this extraordinary ecosystem.
Understanding those subtle shifts was Saskia’s main reason for returning.
Rather than staying in one place, she travelled between three of &Beyond's Okavango Delta camps – Nxabega, Xaranna, and Sandibe – each reached by light aircraft or helicopter. Although the flights were short, every arrival was like stepping into a new chapter of the Delta. One camp drew her closer to the landscape, another immersed her in the winding watercourses, while the last combined extraordinary wildlife with genuine human connection.
By the end of the journey, Saskia realised that each camp brought its own character to the Delta, together painting a picture of Botswana's remarkable diversity.
Nxabega: Where the Bush Comes Closer
The adventure officially began in Maun. After arriving at the airport, a member of the &Beyond team greeted her with refreshments, a small goodie bag, and everything she needed before escorting her to the waiting aircraft. It was a thoughtful start to the journey, one that made travelling into the Delta feel effortless.
"They help you find your small aircraft, tell you where to go, and help you with your boarding pass. It was a lovely touch.”
As the flight carried her deeper into the Delta, the wilderness below became increasingly, and wonderfully, wild. Mesmerised by the patchwork of wandering river channels and emerald islands beyond her window, she soon touched down at &Beyond Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp.
But before she even had time to take in the camp itself, something else stole her attention.
"The first thing I saw when I arrived was this elephant just walking across the floodplain into the little waterhole. It was a bit like they ordered it to be there when I arrived."
Looking around properly for the first time, Saskia began to take in Nxabega itself. Tucked beneath towering ebony and African mangosteen trees, the camp felt beautifully woven into the landscape, as though it had always belonged there.
Inside, the canvas suites continued that feeling of immersion. Every detail balanced comfort with authenticity, while the canvas walls softened the boundary between indoors and out, allowing the Delta to become part of everyday life.
"You feel like you're sleeping right in the bush.”
And with only a handful of guests sharing each game drive, every outing was personal. There was time to ask questions, linger at sightings both big and small, get to know her guide, and simply absorb the landscape without feeling hurried.
It was Saskia's first glimpse of the exclusivity that would come to define her Botswana experience – not just wondrous wildlife sightings, but the luxury of having the time and space to appreciate them.
Xaranna: Where Time Begins to Stretch
Leaving Nxabega behind, Saskia climbed aboard another light aircraft and watched the Delta transform once again beneath her window.
Xaranna sits within the private Ranns Concession, a more water-focused corner of the Delta where palm-fringed islands and seasonal lagoons define the landscape.
As they explored the concession, her guide pointed beyond the grassy banks.
"He'd say, 'This would all be water. We'd normally be travelling by boat here.'"
It was a reminder that the Delta is never static. Like a pair of lungs, it expands and contracts with the seasons as the floodwaters arrive and recede, constantly reshaping the way it is experienced.
Back at camp, sandy pathways led Saskia to her suite, where she stepped out onto a spacious deck overlooking a tranquil lagoon. With a plunge pool, uninterrupted views across the water, and little more than birdsong and rustling reeds for company, Xaranna immediately invited her to settle into the slower pace of the Delta.
During the flood season, Xaranna's full flowing channels invite guests to explore the Delta by mokoro (a traditional dugout canoe) or motorised boat. Both form two of the most peaceful and immersive ways to experience this remarkable ecosystem. But during her visit, Saskia spent her days exploring the bush in the classic way.
"The game drives were absolutely amazing."
More than the sightings themselves, Saskia remembers how naturally each drive flowed. There was no schedule. If something extraordinary was taking place, they let the moment carry them.
And that’s exactly what happened.
Near camp, two lionesses guarded the remains of a buffalo they'd brought down while curious cubs explored cautiously nearby. On each drive, Saskia and her guide returned to see how the scene had changed. Hyenas appeared. Vultures gathered overhead. Slowly, the carcass disappeared until little remained but the horns and part of the skull.
Rather than chasing the next sighting, they watched nature finish telling its own story.
Those special moments weren’t confined to game drives alone. One afternoon, convinced they were heading back to camp, Saskia watched as the vehicle rounded a bend to reveal an elegant lunch laid out beside a lagoon scattered with hippos.
"There were blankets, little benches, a cocktail of the day... and we just sat there by the water. We only returned to camp later that afternoon."
Saskia's favourite memories at Xaranna all reflected the camp itself – an oasis of calm where time seemed to stretch, mirroring the beauty of the landscape around her. The Delta asked for nothing more than her presence, and she was more than happy to oblige.
Sandibe: Where Everything Comes Together
One final helicopter flight carried Saskia across the Okavango, offering a bird's-eye view of the wilderness she'd spent the past week exploring. Below, rivers curled through forests and shimmering floodplains before the helicopter descended into the heart of Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge.
Stepping onto Sandibe ground, Saskia immediately noticed how distinct it was. The lodge seemed to rise organically from beneath the trees, its sweeping curves inspired by the scales of a pangolin. Contemporary yet deeply connected to its surroundings – Saskia had never seen anything like it before.
And beyond the lodge, the wildlife was every bit as memorable. African wild dogs became the main characters on game drives, giving Saskia the rare opportunity to follow them as they moved through the concession.
"If there was something incredible to watch, we stayed with it. We watched, we took it all in, and we just enjoyed being there."
Then came the sighting she'd quietly hoped for from the very beginning.
"I said to the ranger, 'I'd love to see a pangolin if we're lucky.'"
She was half joking. Pangolins are among Africa's most elusive mammals, and neither of them truly expected it to happen.
Yet, just before she was due to leave, the radio crackled into life.
"They found one!"
More than the rarity of the sighting, it was the reaction that lingered. Guides, camp team members, and even a ranger from a neighbouring concession were invited to watch as this magnificent creature shuffled through the bush. And for a few minutes, everyone shared the same sense of awe.
Saskia experienced that same level of connection and warmth in all her interactions. Thoughtful surprises appeared throughout her stay, and personal touches were awaiting her arrival.
Travelling solo gave Saskia the chance to spend more time with the guides and lodge team, and their conversations soon moved beyond the day's sightings. One evening, a guide spoke candidly about his family, his childhood, and what it was like growing up in Botswana.
None of it felt scripted. The hospitality was genuine because it came from people who clearly loved sharing Botswana with her.
"When you’re there, you feel like family."
Recommending Botswana, Firsthand
After spending a week exploring the Okavango Delta, Saskia returned with far more than a collection of seemingly surreal sightings. She gained a deeper understanding of how Botswana is experienced, from the pace of its game drives and the intimacy of its private concessions to the distinct character of each camp.
“I would always rave to my clients about the exclusivity. It's much more personal.”
Today, those firsthand experiences shape every itinerary she designs. Rather than simply recommending exceptional lodges, Saskia carefully considers how each camp complements the next, creating a journey that gradually unveils the many sides of the Delta.
For honeymooners, couples, photographers, and seasoned safari-goers seeking a more immersive wilderness experience, she wholeheartedly recommends combining camps rather than staying in a single place.
It's the contrast between landscapes, wildlife encounters, and styles of safari that transforms an already extraordinary trip into something truly memorable.
"It's such a special place. I came away understanding why people fall in love with Botswana. And combining the camps tells a much bigger story.”
There are many ways to explore the Delta on a luxury Botswana Tour, or extend your adventure by pairing the Okavango Delta with Victoria Falls - Saskia’s favourite combination.
Ready For Your Next Adventure?
The best safaris aren't measured by the number of wildlife sightings, but by the stories you bring home. Whether Botswana is your first safari or your fifth, our Travel Experts will design a luxury itinerary that's shaped around your interests, pace, and the experiences that matter most to you.
Speak to our team today, and let's start planning your Botswana story.
