Rhino Africa Travel Expert, Tara Beckett, has spent years guiding guests through the nuances of East Africa. She knew the thrill of the Maasai Mara inside out, and for a long time, that was the ultimate Kenya in her eyes. Then she set out to explore the northern circuit, expecting nothing more than a quiet supporting act. What she found instead transformed how she views the country, showing her that Kenya’s true strength isn't just in its famous wildlife hotspots; it’s in the powerful contrast between the Mara's adrenaline and the North’s solitary expanse.
Northern Kenya
When Tara and the Rhino Africa team landed in Nairobi, they didn't take the well-trodden air route west towards the Mara. They headed north into Laikipia.
Kenya often arrives in the mind as a single, familiar postcard: sweeping savannah, flat-topped acacias, and a lion resting in the golden grass. But driving north, that classic picture gave way to a far more varied terrain.
The country opened towards large granite ridges, with scrubland and riverine forests breaking up the horizon. Tara peered out the window to witness herds of elephant, zebra, and buffalo moving against a backdrop that appeared almost unreal.
“It felt like a painting. It’s like the land just started coming to life, with so many different colours. It was beautiful.”
The air was crisp, the roads were clear, and Tara found herself experiencing a rare luxury: complete solitude.
“It felt as though we were the only people on safari.”
Borana: Time to Stay a Little Longer
Tara’s first stop in Northern Kenya was Borana Conservancy, staying at the cosy Bornana Lodge, where the safari pace noticeably softens. Here, the quality of a game drive isn't measured in how many species you cross off a list, but in how long you are allowed to sit with them.
“You don’t feel rushed. You can stay with a sighting for as long as you like.”
That unhurried time transforms the experience. Instead of snatching a brief glimpse and racing off to answer the next radio call, Tara could linger as cheetahs padded through the grass, jackals trotted across the track, and rhinos grazed peacefully across open plains.
Borana is world-renowned for its rhino conservation, and a visit to the conservancy’s headquarters gave Tara a firsthand look at the anti-poaching teams behind their recovery. Seeing that work on the ground gave every rhino encounter a far greater weight.
“If guests are interested in conservation, Borana is a deeply special place to experience it.”
Why go?
In a protected conservancy like Borana, whole game drives can pass without encountering another vehicle. That solitude gives your day complete flexibility – whether you want to track a single pride for hours or simply park by a ridge and watch the afternoon light shift over the valley.
Highlight
High above the plains sits Borana’s Pride Rock – one of the iconic granite outcrops that inspired the landscapes of The Lion King. Climbing to the top and looking out over the vast northern expanse, the scale of the country suddenly clicked for Tara:
“This is Kenya.”
Suyian Conservancy: Where the Wild Speaks
Nearby in Laikipia, Suyian Conservancy reveals another side of Northern Kenya. Granite kopjes, rocky ridges, and the Ewaso Narok River replace open grassland, creating a refuge for species specially adapted to the north.
Suyian is home to some of Kenya’s rarer animals – including Grévy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, gerenuk, and African wild dog – as well as the region's famous melanistic black leopards.
Tara experienced that wild unpredictability firsthand. First came a pack of African wild dogs resting together in the shade while the team watched nearby. Later, her guide spotted a leopard high on a rocky mountainside, small against the vastness of the granite backdrop. It was one of those moments stripped of all safari artifice – unpredictable and entirely on nature's terms.
“Seeing the leopard in that setting felt more raw, more authentic, and deeply wild.”
Why go?
Suyian’s luxury safari model is relatively new, so the conservancy offers a genuine sense of discovery. Free from crowded sighting loops, there is time to slow down, read the tracks in the sand, and appreciate the finer details of the bush.
“It felt more like a wilderness journey.”
Highlight
Tara’s highlight here wasn’t something you’d necessarily expect from a safari, and certainly not one she saw coming. Staying at Suyian Lodge, guests can head down to the river on the property and try their hand at fishing. Tara did just that, catching a small fish and coming away with one of her favourite memories from the stay.
“It’s a small experience, but that’s part of its charm; slowing down and simply seeing what might take the line.”
The Maasai Mara
Moving into the Maasai Mara National Reserve, the atmosphere changed. After the quiet horizons of Northern Kenya, the reserve brought Tara face-to-face with Africa’s most famous safari stage. Vehicles are more common, and sightings carry a shared buzz. But that collective pulse is part of the magic.
There is a crackle of anticipation in the air – a sense that around the very next acacia thicket, something extraordinary is about to break. Yet even in a landscape this popular, the right camp and a skilled guide can still carve out moments of complete seclusion.
Ishara Mara: The Mara’s Dual Pulse
Situated inside the Maasai Mara, Ishara Mara offered Tara an intimate base right in the heart of the action.
One evening, she stepped onto the camp's sundowner deck above the river. As the golden light softened across the water and the bush settled into dusk, she was caught off guard by a wave of profound peace. Sitting there with the firelight beginning to glow, she found tears in her eyes – moved by the beauty of the moment and how grounded she felt within it.
The very next morning, the reserve revealed its fiercer side. On a game drive, Tara watched a large lion pride hunt a buffalo.
“I was speechless. We were in absolute awe of what was unfolding in front of us.”
Experiencing both moments back-to-back showed Tara the true nature of the Mara: a place that can be soul-stirring in its silence one moment, and leave you breathless from its wild intensity the next.
Why go?
Ishara offers a refined, deeply thoughtful way to experience the National Reserve. With a dedicated photography suite and expert photo-guides, it caters brilliantly to budding and advanced photographers alike. The birdlife around camp also blew Tara away – surprising even herself, as someone who wouldn't normally call herself a birder.
Highlight
Before first light, Tara and the team headed out while the reserve was still wrapped in dark silence. Arriving at the launch site, they watched as the flames of the burner roared, and the massive hot air balloon slowly inflated.
The lift-off felt effortless. Floating silently above the plains as the sun broke the horizon, they watched wildlife moving below – tiny shapes drifting across the immense expanse of the Mara.
Kenyan Contrasts: How to Pair the Journey
Kenya reaches its full potential when its contrasting regions are allowed to balance one another.
Up north in Laikipia, the wilderness opens out and the days belong to you. Wildlife appears without a rush, and there is time to sit with it rather than simply drive through it. Then the Maasai Mara pulls you into the action with its high-voltage energy.
While Tara’s own trip took her north first, her expert advice for safari-goers – particularly those visiting Africa for the first time – is to flip the sequence.
“Start in the Mara for that big, exhilarating safari energy. Then head north to slow down, exhale, and enjoy the space.”
And for guests wanting to round out the journey, Tara now recommends continuing to the coast. Coastal hideaways like Diani Beach or Lamu Island offer a restorative ocean finish that feels deeply connected to the rest of the country.
“I love that you can go from the bush to the beach and still feel the soul of Kenya. That transition just makes complete sense.”
Kenya, In Full
Before this trip, Tara planned Kenya primarily through the lens of its iconic highlights. Today, when she sits down with guests to design a luxury Kenya safari, she talks about the power of contrast – of pairing the Mara's thrill with the North's vast, solitary horizons. Because when you give Kenya room to breathe, you don't just see the country. You feel it.
Ready to see Kenya differently? Speak to one of our Travel Experts to start planning a journey that brings its contrasts together.
