For years as a Travel Expert at Rhino Africa, Rwanda existed in my mind as a singular, magnificent highlight: gorilla territory. After countless trips across the continent, I thought I knew exactly what to expect. But Rwanda had other plans. At every turn, this extraordinary country flipped the script on me, completely rewriting my idea of a Rwandan itinerary. Beyond the mist lies a far bigger story – and it’s one I can’t wait to share with you.
1. Begin Beneath the Surface
Before heading into Rwanda’s wild spaces, I started my journey in its capital city, Kigali. And I’m glad I did.
This thriving metropolis gives you your first glimpse of modern Rwanda – colourful, clean, bustling, warm, and full of life. But the Kigali Genocide Memorial gave me another lens through which to look.
The visit brought the country’s history into focus and helped me understand the extraordinary progress Rwanda has made since 1994. I found it deeply moving, and felt that visiting was an important way to acknowledge that history. A talk at the beginning made that history feel immediate and personal. Yes, it was heart-wrenching, but I would still recommend starting here every time.
As I travelled on, that perspective stayed with me. Memorials appeared in towns along the way, and I began to notice the story of Rwanda’s past alongside the country it has become today: its pride, its resilience, and its determination to keep moving forward.
This experience ultimately shaped the way I saw everything that followed. You look a little further, appreciate a little more, and begin to understand the country beyond the landscapes and wildlife.
2. Start Your Safari Somewhere Unexpected
Now, let’s challenge some expectations. Did you know Rwanda is also a prime safari destination? Akagera National Park is seldom at the top of a first-time Rwanda route, but those who know the country make time for it, and often come back for more.
Here, Rwanda opens up into classic savannah. Golden plains roll toward papyrus-fringed lakes and wetlands, where hippos, crocodiles, and plains game move through the open landscape. It has that iconic African safari feeling, framed by a uniquely Rwandan backdrop.
I stayed at Magashi Peninsula, where the days move between game drives and Lake Rwanyakazinga. You can head out onto the lake and settle in for boat sundowners as the last light glimmers across the open water.
One evening, after cruising past wallowing hippos, we pulled up along the shore with drinks in hand. We laughed and took it all in, and I remember exclaiming:
“Look where we are, guys!”
That’s Akagera for me, and in that moment I realised Rwanda had a few tricks up its sleeve.
3. Follow the Landscape
Leaving Akagera's warm plains behind, the terrain climbs rapidly into the misty highlands. The road winds higher through terraced hills, neat rows of tea plantations appear, and the air grows crisp.
This journey offers a striking geographic shift. Driving lets you watch Rwanda change through the window, scene by scene. However, because transit times through the winding mountain roads can add up, combining scenic drives with helicopter trasnfers is often the ideal balance for a seamless itinerary.
Either way, by the time you reach Volcanoes National Park in the northwest, you have entered a completely new realm: a cool, dramatic volcanic biome defined by towering Virunga peaks, bamboo thickets, and cloud-draped slopes.
Let the Rainforest In
I know, I know, I said there’s more to Rwanda than the gorillas. But let’s be honest, they’re the reason most come here in the first place.
At Bisate Reserve, one of the country’s most striking luxury lodges tucked into an eroded volcanic cone, I woke up to fresh Rwandan coffee, fog drifting past the dormant peaks, and that surreal feeling of knowing a major bucket-list moment was mere minutes away.
The trek into the montane bamboo forest was a true alpine workout. The altitude makes itself known quickly as you follow trackers along wild forest elephant paths up steep, mud-slicked slopes. I hadn’t planned on hiring a porter, but meeting Innocent changed my mind. He intuitively knew when to lend a hand over slick roots and when to give me space, quietly handing me water as the incline steepened.
Then, emerging through the dense bamboo, we met the family. A massive silverback stood, turned, and casually ambled past us. All around him, daily life continued unabated: mothers keeping watchful eyes over their young, while juveniles tumbled and groomed in the underbrush. Standing in that cool mountain air beside them was worth every step.
But that wasn’t the only thing that stayed with me, because there was another encounter waiting in the trees.
A Flash of Gold
While silverbacks often take centre stage, did you know you can find gold in these rainforests too?
Golden monkeys are endemic to the Albertine Rift, and Volcanoes National Park is one of the few places where you can see them. I joined the group excursion the morning after my gorilla trek, and the mood couldn’t have been more different.
Where the gorillas had taken us up into the mountains, these little guys had us watching the trees above us, trying to keep up as they zipped, leapt, and disappeared through the canopy.
The troop was already on the move, bouncing between branches, darting through vegetation, and popping up again somewhere completely unexpected. There was something wonderfully playful about it, and we had the freedom to follow their antics and explore the forest at our own pace.
Gift yourself another morning here. The golden monkeys are one of those surprise activities that show another perspective of Volcanoes National Park, and the experience in itself is, well… gold.
4. Leave the Mountains for Lunch
After days on steep, cool trails, we descended slightly toward the volcanic Twin Lakes, Ruhondo and Burera, where the alpine greenery gives way to bright blue waters framed by striking crater ridges.
Life here revolves around the water. Traditional wooden canoes skim across the lake against the backdrop of distant volcanic cones, leading to one of the continent's most impressive culinary stops: Meza Malonga.
Sitting on the edge of Lake Ruhondo, Chef Dieuveil Malonga created something truly special. We arrived by boat, toured the on-site garden and fermentation labs, then sat down for an eight-course tasting menu celebrating pan-African ingredients.
The meal itself was beautiful, but I particularly loved the story behind it. Malonga has built a space for farming, research, training, and young African chefs, with the local community woven through all of it.
“Now I try to include it in almost all my guests’ itineraries, because it’s unlike any other dining experience I’ve encountered.”
It’s a long lunch by a lake, an entirely unique taste of Rwanda, and exactly the kind of twist I now know to leave room for.
5. Go Deeper Into the Forest
Heading to the far southwest corner of the country brings you to a completely different forest biome altogether: Nyungwe National Park.
While Volcanoes National Park is characterised by high elevation, volcanic soil, and bamboo, Nyungwe National Park is one of Africa’s oldest primary rainforests. It’s a massive, dense jungle matrix of ancient hardwood trees, giant tree ferns, and sweeping canopy layers surrounded by emerald tea estates. Staying at One&Only Nyungwe House puts you right on the boundary line where manicured tea fields meet wild, jungle wilderness.
Trekking here feels distinctly atmospheric. The air is warm and humid, moss hangs heavy from canopy trees that are hundreds of years old, and the forest floor is thick with leaf litter. Suddenly, the vocalisations echo through the giant trees. Chimpanzees.
Watching wild chimps swing through the high canopy of this ancient jungle feels worlds apart from tracking gorillas. It’s fast and fully charged.
The tea plantations around Nyungwe aren’t simply scenery, either. I spent some time picking tea with the local workers, and even though we couldn’t speak to one another, we had no problem sharing a few laughs, and I relished every sip of the tea tasting.
Curated For The Contrast
By the time I left Rwanda, my entire perspective on planning trips here had shifted. I’ve already booked this exact multi-region route for clients because of the contrast: open savannah game viewing in Akagera National Park, mountain bamboo gorilla treks in Volcanoes National Park, scenic highland lake dining on Ruhondo, and ancient jungle canopy exploration in Nyungwe National Park.
Every region offers a totally distinct environment, culture, and pace. It allows a single country to feel like a multi-destination journey without long, exhausting travel legs between stops.
If I were given the chance to return to Rwanda tomorrow, I'd go in a heartbeat.
Your Rwanda, Thoughtfully Put Together
Rwanda has plenty to surprise you. If my journey inspires you, reach out to one of our Travel Experts, and together, we’ll craft an adventure that gives you time to experience it properly, with the right mix of adventure, discovery, and space to enjoy simply being there.
