by Tamlin Wightman
on June 10, 2011

The Horny Grazer ReviewFour Rhino Rating

“Fan the sinking flame of hilarity with the wing of friendship; and pass the rosy wine.” – Charles Dickens

The Hussar Grill makes me want to be a portly 19th century writer; a Dickensian type complete with waistcoat and braces holding up corduroy pants, penning a novel by the fireplace.

Entering this legendary grill room in Greenpoint, Cape Town, is like walking into Dickens’ library. Or Cluedo’s Billiard Room. You want to call yourself Colonel Mustard and whop the hostess with a candlestick. Consensus is, and I’d agree, it beats the Rondebosch and Camps Bay Hussar, in service (friendly) and atmosphere (warm).

Dining in the Hussar Grill

Inside are shelves of hardcover books and wine bottles, vintage photos of sepia-coloured people, a checkered black and white floor, moody lighting and Jack Daniel’s branded wine barrels.

But onto more pressing matters: food. The Fried Crumbed Camembert, with cranberry jam and Melba toast, is my favourite starter from any Cape restaurant I’ve tried. At R62, it’s filling and so decadent it seems hedonistic.

Crumbed Fried Camembert with cranberry at the Hussar Grill

Although Hog Ribs and Carpetbagger sounded like enticing mains, never mind good band names, I opted for Bushmans Kebab with wild game. Happiness is…. pricey at R159, but a treat for the carnivorous. The sole is delicious too, especially with creamy spinach and cinnamon butternut.

There are some great wines and beers, but retiring to the bar for cigars and cognac is the only way to end an evening here, at least for one practicing to be a 19th century man.

Enjoy a drink at the bar - Hussar Grill, Cape Town

Contact: 107a Main Road, Green Point, Cape Town

Tel: 021 433 2081

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