If you go down to the Sabi Sands today you in for a big surprise – no seriously you are – “The Varty’s” are back – the boxing gloves are off – and there is some serious determination to transform this Grande dame of Safari Lodges back into the industry leader.
Anybody who thought a ‘lick and a paint’ was going to suffice is in for an even bigger surprise. R10 million plus already spent, and Londolozi has already been given a brand new lease on life. With Pioneer and Founders Camp refurbishments complete, construction on the new Granite Suites is well under way. At 120 square meters, each of the three suites is a lodge itself, and just when I thought this had to be the new Londolozi flagship, Stoff ushered me across to Tree Camp. Anybody who knows Tree Camp would also knows that it probably has one of the most spectacular bush settings – the rooms were a little tired – okay very tired and small, but no more! The entire camp has been pulled down. The public areas are being completely rebuilt and the rooms have almost doubled in size. This new lodge is going to cause quite a stir! Varty Camp – formerly Bateleur Camp, with its imposing and impressive deck and the Boma fire that has burnt in the same spot since 1926, has received a refurbishment too. The rooms are still a little small, but they are comfortable and each has a private plunge pool.
And then there is the game, the primary reason why so many guests fly so far to visit our beautiful Kruger Park. If I have one criticism of the safari industry at present it would be around the game experience – everyone is so intent on competing on luxurious bedrooms and bathrooms, the primary activity of game viewing has sadly almost been forgotten.
I’ll leave the debate about bush clearing to the ecologists, but I will say this: having visited nearly every reserve in the Sabi Sand a number of times during various seasons, I’ve always found Big 5 game viewing to be some of the best in Africa in this area, but the distinct lack of plains game in the Sabi Sand has always been a concern. Well, now I can tell you where they are all hanging out!
Zebra, giraffe, impala – by the thousands – wildebeest and buffalo – I was astonished by the sheer numbers that congregated on the open plains of Londolozi. For a minute I thought I was in the Serengeti. This, in addition to the leopards, which are practically “on call”, along with the rest of the Big 5. Granted the Varty’s have a 15 year advantage on any of the other reserves in the area regarding bush clearing,but it was heartening to see how the surrounding reserves were starting to play catch-up. The seep lines are looking fantastic, and it is incredible to see the effect they have had on Game viewing – the Sabi Sand is really looking the best it has in many years.
And what would the game be without those rangers – Melvin and his tracker Milton (who started out as a gardener some 10 years back) were an incredible team. One really got the sense of passion for the African bush, and the entire drive revolved around what we wanted to do and see – in fact at one point I decided I wanted to give it a go as a tracker, (I figured with this much game how difficult could it be) so Milton hopped on the back of the Land Rover and off we went. I found that I needed some practice, but at least I didn’t mistake the Wildebeest for Buffalo!
Admittedly I’m not the easiest person to please, but the lodge itself is only part of the experience. The people, the service, the food and wine (okay the Moët helped…) along with the all-important game activities are the determining factors of a successful safari. Londolozi appears to have a very clear understanding of these, and have set another bench-mark in the Sabi Sand.