Chef Talk with Rhino Africa – Malika van Reenen

Malika van Reenen

This is the first ‘Chef Talk’ in our series of five Q&A sessions.

Tamlin and I have taken it upon ourselves to shake hands with some of South Africa’s – and the world’s – top chefs. And, of course, to sniff, feel, taste and sip our way through these award-winning chefs’ dishes.

Our first stop was Signal Restaurant at the Cape Grace Hotel, on a private quay in the V&A Waterfront. We went to interview Executive Head Chef, Malika van Reenen. And to enjoy the splendid breakfast…

We couldn’t have asked for a better person to launch our series. Malika’s bubbly nature was contagious from the minute she sat down at our table. Her passion for Cape Town and the Cape Grace is effusive.

Who is Malika?

Malika will soon reach her 5 year mark as award-winning Executive Head Chef of the Cape Grace and it is obvious she has no intention of leaving anytime soon. Her true love may be food, but there is a clear love affair with Cape Town taking place, influencing both her work and day-to-day life in the city.

Even after visiting Switzerland, New York and Dubai and doing a 2 year stint of cheffing in London, Malika says that Cape Town is home. She attributes this to the endless bounty the city has to offer, from beach to mountain, wine farms to top restaurants and bars – and of course her family.

Over our leisurely breakfast, we talked shop (and plenty more) with Malika, quizzing her on everything from food to travel:

Q&As

Q: What are your favourite and least favourite ingredients?
(Long pause – Malika answered every question with genuine thought and contemplation considering her current preferences) Favourite I would have to say ginger, limes, chilies; least favourite: bad quality produce.

Q: What is your favourite dish to eat at home?
Cheese on toast, believe it or not. Mature cheddar is best but any cheese will do. (Cheeky grin.)

Q: What is your favourite hobby outside of the kitchen?
I love to walk. Anywhere in Cape Town. Along Seapoint promenade, up Lions Head, Clifton to Camps Bay. It’s Cape Town.

Q: Which dish sums you up as a chef?
I’d have to say my Deconstructed Springbok Babotie on the current menu. It’s the traditional South African meal but we are reusing it in a modern way. I like to add a dash of history to my food while incorporating modern elements. (Malika won the title of Master of the Trade Routes for the Cape Grace’s Signal restaurant with this traditional Cape Malay dish.)

Q: What destination is on the top of your travel bucket list?
I really want to go to Singita. Lots of the staff from the Cape Grace have moved on to Singita and I would love to sample their food which exhibits such strong African elements and relies heavily on local produce.

Q: What do you think about the current food trends?
The use of sustainable produce is a key part of most menus at the moment and it’s something I strongly support. I’m also really enjoying the collaborations with artisanal producers. I think if you are using brilliant produce there is no need to make your dish up from foams and jellies. Sometimes you just want a real carrot you know? I never say, ‘I really want to go back to that place and have a plate of foam.’ That’s just not me.

Q: What advice would you give young chefs hoping to reach your level of success?
Determination. That’s it.

Q: Did you predict the scale of success that was going to be in your future?
I always wanted to be an Executive Chef but I didn’t know that I would reach that level so early in my life. It was a lot of hard work though and it is not something for the faint hearted, but it’s well worth it. A lot of young chefs make the mistake of running after salaries and experiences and so they don’t get enough exposure to the industry and tend to quit before they reach the top.

Q: Was there a defining moment when you decided to become a chef?
I always wanted to be a chef. It’s at my core. My fondest and earliest memories are of food. Food was a big part of my childhood, my granny was a cook and the passion has always been there.

Q: How has the personality and character of the Cape Grace influenced your work as a chef?
My experience has been in restaurants and there are so many more opportunities to experiment with cooking at a hotel like the Cape Grace. We are always planning something new and it’s always exciting. I don’t want to work anywhere but the Cape Grace in Cape Town at the moment. If I went anywhere it would be to travel. We are very spoilt here too – we even have access to the spa. (Malika reveals another cheeky grin. We had a quick look inside the spa after breakfast and suddenly we completely understood why. It was gorgeous. The perfect getaway from a stressful kitchen.)

Q: What is your thought process when you begin to construct a new dish?
I always try to incorporate the personality of Cape Town. I have a strong Cape Malay background and the strong flavours of that influence my menu. But I also consider my food to be contemporary cosmopolitan. Seasonal and local produce is very important to me and I try to ensure that everything I use is as ethical as it can be. I consider the trends at the time but keep my focus on the traditional Cape Malay spices. It is second nature to me having grown up with those flavours.

Q: What kind of dining experience do you try and create at Signal?
An authentic Cape Town feel. That’s the most important thing to me. It has to be comfortable but extremely special for our guests. They are well looked after and that’s what the Cape Grace does best.

Q: There is a strong Asian influence to your cooking. Where does this come from?
I worked with Mike Basset (at Myoga at the Vineyard) and his food had a very strong Asian influence. I also think a lot of the Cape Malay flavours can be associated with the Asian flavours, like the fresh ginger and chillis. It’s what I’m comfortable with.

Q: How do you think South African dining compares to the rest of the world?
I have to say I think we are doing remarkably well. I lived in the UK for a couple of years and I expected it to be so much further ahead of us in the food industry. But when I started working there it was quite an anti-climax for me. I could see that South Africa is actually home to some of the best chefs and we have such a variety of cuisine. That makes it a very special place for me.

Q: Where are your top 3 dining recommendations for travelers to Cape Town?
I really would put Signal on the top of my list but I guess I can’t say that. The Pot Luck Club in the Biscuit Mill; Harbour House in Kalk Bay; and The Roundhouse. Excellent food needs to be combined with a great ambiance and that is what these places offer.

“The Cape Grace is Cape Town,” says Malika. A statement we well and truly support.

Every member of staff at the Cape Grace exudes a true passion for this beautiful hotel. From the staff at the door, to the waiters at Signal, a genuine smiling face awaits each and every guest.

After indulging in the buffet and following our waiter’s suggestion, we ordered the enticing Potato rosti, truffle-scented creamed mushrooms and two soft poached eggs. Foodies – you won’t be able to resist the call of indulgence. The healthy juices are always there to help relieve some guilt – and they’re darn tasty too. My favourite is the green juice, with its mix of apple, celery, spinach, cucumber and ginger.

It was an honour to meet Malika. Her humble view of her success, her inspiring passion for food and her contagious love of Cape Town only reflect the Cape Grace’s values which have made it into the iconic hotel it is today.

Take a look at more photos of the day on our Facebook Page.

There is also one more Cape Grace lady in the kitchen who deserves a special mention. Irish-born Head Pastry Chef, Lorraine Meaney, who featured on MasterchefSA for one of their well know Pressure Tests, and firmly believes no one should go a day without a desert.

We tried and tested her selection of pain au chocolates, muffins and tarts at breakfast. It’s safe to say we were transported to sweet heaven. Her creations are best sampled at the Cape Grace high tea. An indulgent affair where the traditional three-tier silver towers are covered with intricately decorated cakes and other decadent items. We will be returning soon for a cheeky afternoon once we’ve worked off breakfast.

Once you’ve wined and dined, stuffed yourself with chocolatey deserts and tasted each and every item on the menu – trust us, you won’t be able to resist – head down to the Bascule Bar. A hot spot for Capetonians. Over 500 whiskies from around the world can be tried and tested on the water’s edge of the international yacht marina of Cape Town’s Waterfront. True whiskey lovers can store their favourite bottles behind lock and key in a personalised cabinet, complete with their own personalised cut crystal whiskey tumbler!

Watch out for more Chef Talks with the top chefs creating the ultimate dining experiences in and around Cape Town. Peter Tempelhoff, Scot Kirton and Rudi Liebenberg to name but a few!