May 18

Serra Cafema

By Craig Harding on May 18, 2007

Tucked away in the far north west corner of Namibia bordering Angola lies Serra Cafema, a perfect little gem of a lodge perched on the banks of the croc infested Kunene River which is the natural border of Namibia and Angola. I had heard some wonderful things about Serra Cafema and when Wilderness Safaris called me with an invite to spend two nights at the lodge the answer was an emphatic yes!

Serra Cafema is accessible by light aircraft from Windhoek, some 3 hours flying with a short refuel stop just over midway. Once you land at the Serra Cafema airstrip it’s still another hour’s drive to the lodge through what looks like huge savanna plains hemmed in by rocky mountains. There was a surprise waiting for us, but I’m not going to mention it here! I wouldn’t want to ruin it for anyone who decides to embark upon this trip themselves.

Interiors are all decorated in true, safari style typical of Africa

Leaving the airstrip area we traveled along the plains towards the mountains and on to Serra Cafema. Absolutely nothing could have prepared me for the breathtaking scenery I was about to encounter! Beyond the savanna dusted mountains on the Namibian side are the black monstrous mountains of Angola. These mountains seem to stretch on forever and look incredibly forbidding.

Traveling with the Angolan mountains on our right we then came across the white towering sand dunes of Namibia, a soft contrast to the harshness of the mountains opposite and just as spectacular. Finally we crested a hill and looked down into the most beautiful valley: white sand dunes on one side, black mountains on the other and the Kunene River keeping the peace between these two giants. Serra Cafema lies on the banks of the Kunene in what looks like a small riverine forest.

Each of the suites at Serra Cafema boasts a very comfortable hammock (personally tried and tested!) either overlooking the river and the mountains or the sand dunes, and the attention to detail throughout the camp is superb. I particularly loved the East African inspired carved doors and the sunken lapa overlooking the river. For more information the camp itself feel free to e-mail me direct.

Enjoy sundowners on the deck at this Namibian retreat

But the best was yet to come! The following morning six immaculate quadbikes were lined up in perfect formation at the foot of the dunes, just waiting for us to hop on and ride. It was exhilarating! Particularly the almost 75 degree slide down this enormous dune back to camp. We loved it so much we even used the quads to go visit the Ovahimbas at their village. The Ovahimba are among the last indigenous nomadic tribes still living traditionally in Southern Africa. They survive in the harshest conditions without electricity or running water living in huts made of sticks and mud. They are truly a fascinating people. For more comprehensive info about the Ovahimba visit en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himba.

Sadly it was soon time to leave Serra Cafema. After a tearful goodbye to my Arctic Cat (my beloved quadbike) and heartfelt hugs to all of the staff we boarded the vehicle back to the airstrip. Thankfully the surprises were not over yet!

On our way back we spotted a mob of meerkats, poking their heads out of their burrow and standing on their hindlegs to get a look at us. I don’t know who held more fascination for who! My Serra Cafema experience was now complete. With a stupid grin plastered to my face and a feeling of immense satisfaction I said farewell to Serra Cafema and boarded the charter flight home.


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About the author 

Craig Harding

Craig Harding is the general go-to guy at Rhino Africa. He's pretty chilled out so he's the right guy to have by your side on an intrepid adventure. He says 'the journey is the destination' so we just all nod and agree - it's better that way...

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