Talking to the Elephant Whisperer

Françoise is the ebullient French owner and wife of the inspirational conservationist Lawrence Anthony.

Thula Thula is one of our favourite places in South Africa and the epitome of substance over style. Françoise is the Catherine Deneuve of the African bush, bringing some Parisian panache (not to mention sublime cuisine) to the outskirts of Hluhluwe Game Reserve. Within minutes of entering the park, a great, musking, bull elephant ambled across my path – turns out it was the awesome Mabula (all the animals here have fantastic names – each with a story behind it)! Moments later, after wiping a cool towel over my dusty face and a fresh fruit cocktail was placed into my thirsty grasp, I was whisked into a 4×4 and found myself being introduced to the two baby rhino that the Thula Thula team have taken under their protective wings – Thabo and Ntombi. Since I first visited Thula Thula with the Greenwood Guide, I have been back three times. I can’t get enough of the place and the hospitality. On my second return trip, I was privileged to witness the arrival of Ntombi after 17 hours on the road! The sight of Thabo gingerly giving Ntombi  a welcoming kiss is a sight that will remain with me for a long time. That’s the sort of experience that defines Thula Thula.

Françoise and Lawrence are wonderfully entertaining and like their friendly staff, passionate conservationists. Here, human and animal lives are intimately intertwined as I discovered upon meeting a giraffe practically sunbathing on my stoep. Thula Thula is home to elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, giraffe, zebra, nyala, hyenas, crocodile, kudu, wildebeest and no fewer than 350 bird species. It doesn’t have the Big 5 and the bush is quite thick, but what it lacks in game viewing, it makes up for in all other facets. When I was last there, there were plans to drop the fences between Thula Thula and a corridor leading into the Hluhluwe National Park, so watch this space…

The tented camp with its outdoor showers, laid-back meals and luxury tents big enough for King Shaka and his entourage are perfect for families. A couple of kilometres through the bush, the lodge is equally breathtaking with cathedral-sized, African-themed rooms lavishly decked out with four-posters, zebra rugs and huge doors leading to an enormous verandah. Meeting other guests around a candlelit pool I was guided into the boma, complete with mesmerizing fire (“nature’s TV” whispered Françoise) and presented with a four-course extravaganza. Françoise, who hones her skills each year at the LeNôtre Culinary Institute in Paris, describes her cooking as “Franco-Zulu” and her menu includes creative interpretations of traditional dishes including creative interpretations of dishes such as Seafood Bouillabaisse Creole and Oxtail Bourguignon. While feasting on chicken with chilli chocolate sauce and a sensational impala pie, Lawrence chatted to me about his latest book The Elephant Whisperer. Lawrence was asked to accept a herd of ‘rogue’ elephants on to the reserve at Thula Thula – his commonsense told him to refuse. But he was the herd’s last chance of survival – notorious escape artists, they would all be killed if Lawrence wouldn’t take them. He agreed, but before arrangements for the move could be completed the animals broke out again and the matriarch and her baby were shot. The remaining elephants were traumatised and very angry. As soon as they arrived at Thula Thula they started planning their escape… into the waiting guns. As Lawrence battled to create a bond with the elephants and save them from execution, he came to realise that the fascinating creatures had a lot to teach him about love, loyalty and freedom. This is stirring stuff folks. And by the way, Lawrence was presented with The Earth day medal and the Earth Day award in a ceremony at the United Nations for his heroic exploits in rescuing the animals in the Baghdad Zoo in the midst of the Iraqi conflict. But that’s a whole different story. In fact, it’s a whole different book – Babylon’s Arc. Just do yourself a favour and get to Thula Thula. Drop us an enquiry and we’ll sort you out with everything you need to experience the magic for yourself.