December 9

Whispering sweet nothings, Serra Cafema Camp is calling.

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By Matthew Sterne on December 9, 2010

With the end of the year looming, I’ve heard certain phrases being used in heavy rotation. Chief among them is a general desire to ‘park off and just do nothing’. Well if you’re willing to endure a three hour, light aircraft trip from Windhoek, Namibia, you’ll soon discover the place where the art of doing nothing was invented. And perfected.

In the extreme north-west of Namibia, famous for its vast expanses of Namib Desert and breathtaking ‘nothingness’, is Serra Cafema – one of the most remote camps in Southern Africa. I expected desolation. But I was wrong. A curious thing happens when river meets desert. The romance flourishes in the form of a lush oasis. The Kunene river banks explode with reeds, tall grass, Palm and Albida trees that shelter the camp from the harsh Namib. The camp consists of 8 riverside Meru-style canvas and thatched chalets on spacious, elevated decks blended craftily into the picturesque surroundings. I would suggest that you turn late afternoon lounging on the deck into a ritual of relaxation as the breathtaking vistas of this contrasting wilderness have no equal. Your evening plans might include a sunset dip in the pool followed by dinner and a nightcap at the bar before you are lulled into dreamland by the babbling rapids down stream from the camp.

Serra Cafema
Serra Cafema

If you’re finding it difficult to lose yourself in idle, sweet nothings you might want to explore one of the planet’s driest deserts. In this bizarre corner of the continent, you can choose to go by water or by land. Whether you traverse the dunes by 4×4 or snake down the river by boat, you’ll experience lunar-like landscapes dotted with springbok, ostrich, water birds and crocodiles. For those who enjoy more quiet contemplation, walking in the remote mountain and river valleys is also a highlight.

Serra Cafema

And as the infamous Namibian early morning mist rolls in, your new-found calm will no-doubt leave you with some free head space to ponder the mysterious ‘fairy circle’ phenomenon. Serra Cafema is without doubt one of the most beautiful regions in the world. If you find yourself in need of a spectacular dose of nothing, then I cannot think of a more sublime setting in which to get it.


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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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