David has just returned from a magical Easter holiday in Madagascar. What follows is his ultimate Madagascan itinerary…
The Republic of Madagascar is an island nation in the Indian Ocean, situated 400km off the Eastern coast of Africa. Shrouded in mystery, filled with a spectacular array of amazing wildlife and ringed by stunning beaches, it is an entirely unique holiday destination. Roughly the size of Texas or France, Madagascar is home to more than 250,000 species, of which 80% cannot be found anywhere else on the planet!
Madagascar is the 4th largest island in the world and was formed some 160 million years ago when it broke away from mainland Africa. Uninhabited until 2000 years ago, it became a haven for the evolution of tropical fauna and flora and as such is now the world’s premier conservation area.
With less than 200,000 tourists a year, if you are looking for something completely different and unique, then Madagascar is most certainly the place for you.
Enjoyed either as an island add-on to your African safari, or as a destination in its own right where you can take in the sights and sounds of the capital city Antananarivo, along with the diverse wildlife and pristine rain forests, or the unspoilt beauty of the private islands.
Antananarivo
My ultimate Madagascar itinerary began with two nights in the capital city of Antananarivo, or Tana as the locals like to call it. No concrete jungle, Tana is home to just over three million Malagasies, and is a maze of houses and businesses built on top of each other along cobbled roads, some of which seem almost vertical. Every piece of available flat land appears to have been gobbled up by rice paddies.
Antananarivo is the gateway to Madagascar, offering a unique insight into the daily life and “struggle” of the Malagasy people. A full day in the capital is all you will need to take in the sights and sounds of this city, which truly is like no other. A private driver/guide is essential for your time in Tana, and at about €90 for a full day, it’s well worth the investment. Self-drive in either Tana or anywhere else in Madagascar is not recommended.
Given the limited number of tourists, there are unfortunately not a great number of hotels or restaurants to choose from when staying in Antananarivo, and both food quality and variety are often variable. While this is no 5-star destination, both food and drink are relatively inexpensive; with French cuisine still playing a dominant role in Malagasy hospitality. Fresh fruit and pastries are the order of breakfast, while local Zebu steak and Duck are the most common meat choices.
My hotel of choice in Tana is the Palissandre Hotel and Spa overlooking Avenue Independence and Anakakely Market. The Palissandre Hotel and Spa is perfectly situated to do short walks and explore Tana’s city center, but one should take into consideration that Tana is by no means flat.
Antisabe
Situated 135 km East of Antananarivo, a picturesque three and a half hour drive along a windy road, comically named the Tokyo Highway, lies the 21,000 hectare Antisabe and Mantiba Reserves – home to no less than 11 lemur species and a haven for the Golden Safaka. After mass deforestation further West, Antisabe is where you come to see Madagascar’s lemurs and rain forests.
Originally just 816 hectares, Antisabe has been expanded to over 20,000 hectares of rain forest. Home to the Indri Lemur, and the only place in the world where you can see these magnificent animals, Antisabe has 32 Indri families.
Visiting Antisabe is not like your normal African safari – there are no open back Landrovers – in fact there are no roads within these pristine rain forests, so everything is done on foot. You will need to hire a private guide, which is inexpensive at around €5 a day. This will allow you to walk as often and as far as you want to in search of these magnificent animals.
When it comes to accommodation in Antisabe, there are only three options. Vakona Forest Lodge is my favourite. Situated in the heart of the corridor linking the two reserves, this Lodge is home to Lemur Island, and the perfect opportunity to get up close and personal with a lemur or two.
Vakona Forest Lodge is not going to win any awards for style or décor, but its setting is spectacular – it is also well priced and the food is very good. It’s also the only property in the area, which offers on-site activities and nature walks. You can get away with two nights at Vakona, but three nights is ideal to partake in all the activities that are on offer and really enjoy this wonderful setting.
Nosy Be and Nosy Iranja
Saving the best till last, Nosy Iranja, a private Island off Nosy Be in the Northeast of the country is truly one of the most magnificent places I have ever been. It can only be described as barefoot luxury. While we spent five nights at Nosy Iranja Lodge, it really doesn’t matter how long you spend on this island paradise it will undoubtedly be too short.
Getting to Nosy Iranja is no mean feat, and will take you the better part of a day, but this in itself is part of the charm of this island paradise. Nosy Iranja is made up of two Islands, linked by a 1.2 km sand bank, which can be crossed at low tide. The smaller Island – Iranja Kely (Turtle Island) is home to the 29-roomed Nosy Iranja Lodge and is like no place on earth. It is by no means your 5-star game lodge with fancy bathrooms and heated plunge pools. In fact both your electricity and water will be rationed, but it is the barefoot luxury we all dream about in a tropical Island.
Nosy Iranja is the only Indian Ocean Island that is a nesting ground for two of the eight Turtle species found in our oceans, namely the Hawksbill and Green Turtle. To witness these incredible animals emerge from the water, dig a metre deep hole and lay eggs is one thing, but to watch a turtle nest burst into life is something quite extraordinary. During our five night stay over Easter, we were witness to four nests hatching and watched in awe as over 250 baby turtles made their way to the sea.
If the turtles are not reason enough to visit this Island paradise, there are certainly plenty of other activities on offer. On the adjacent Island is a small community, along with a scenic walk up to a look-out point where you will find the local school and a lighthouse designed by none other than Mnsr Eiffel.
There is an array of free, non-motorised activities to enjoy, from kayaking to pedal boats, windsurfing or even taking out the hobby cat, but my favourite was without a doubt the snorkelling. There are organised snorkelling trips to the lighthouse and Shark Tooth Rock – both of which are fantastic, but the snorkelling just outside the rooms is equally spectacular. While the corals aren’t plentiful, they are healthy, as is the variety, number and size of the fish.
You will also find a number of other excursions at the Activity Centre, including a Day trip to Nosy Komba and Nosy Tanikely, but to be completely honest, at a cost of €550 (less than 4 people) or €138 per person for four or more people, the experience simply does not warrant the cost, and the experience certainly doesn’t complement the exclusivity that Nosy Iranja offers.
The rooms at Nosy Iranja are fantastic. They are well laid out, neat, clean, and have incredibly comfortable beds. You will quickly make yourself at home in one of the 29 rooms which are evenly distributed around the island, providing sunrise and sunset views, with both family and standard options available.
Nosy Iranja truly is a magical destination, suitable for everyone from honeymooners to families alike, and provides the perfect ending to the ultimate Madagascan experience.
Madagascar is a photographer’s dream, from the sights of Tana to the lemurs of Antisabe, not forgetting the private islands around Nosy Be. You will be overwhelmed by the constant photographic opportunities.
Contact one of our expert travel planners today to arrange your tailor-made holiday to Madagascar and be one of the first to experience this forgotten land, it’s mystical people, the magical wildlife and the unspoilt islands.
David’s Ultimate Madagascar Itinerary
• 2 nights Antananarivo
• 3 Nights Antisabe – Vakona Lodge
• 5 Nights Nosy Iranja