September 19

A Mozambican holiday at Marlin Lodge

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By Matthew Sterne on September 19, 2011

“Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside”

After a grand safari trip at Royal Malewane in the Thornybush Game Reserve, we decided to head to Mozambique. A visit to this Indian Ocean Island was long overdue. With the easiest connection from Kruger without going back to Johannesburg being with Federal Air via Kruger Airport direct to Vilanculos in Mozambique, the Bazaruto Archipelago soon became our destination of choice.

Let’s get the unpleasantness out of the way – prepare yourself for the Federal Air flight, but rest assured the azure waters of Mozambique await and the frustration of getting there makes it more than worthwhile. Connections, along with operators are unfortunately few and far between in these remote regions of Africa, however nothing infuriates me more than the arrogance of one that knows you have little alternative. Needless to say, Federal Air managed to stretch my patience to the limit.

Catch impeccable sun sets and rises in Mozambique

Having already spent the GDP of a small country on this 1h20 flight, I was told we would need to still pay excess baggage (yes, we were over the 15 kgs hold allowance and 5 kgs hand luggage allowance per person) for 10 kgs between four of us. To say I saw red would be a mild exaggeration. Nonetheless we donned our winter jackets, exchanged our flip-flops for shoes and made our way to the aircraft in the 30-degree heat, escaping the surcharge.

To board the flight only to find it 50 % full, with a pilot that looked as though he had just swallowed China, only made me think that perhaps Feral Air simply had case of mistaken identity and were deliberately trying to operate a luxury service off a low cost carrier model!

Fortunately, things improved quickly… The new Vilancoulos Airport opened in April 2011, and is well appointed and air-conditioned, although customs is somewhat slow, even slower if you are travelling on a foreign passport and require a visa. Before we knew it, however, we were met by a representative, transferred down to the beach and were en route to Marlin Lodge on Bazaruto Island, some 30 minutes from the mainland.

Marlin Lodge in Mozambique

Marlin Lodge

If a rustic beach holiday is what you are after, then you need look no further than Marlin Lodge. The beaches around the lodge are fantastic, one can walk for miles, or swim safely anywhere around the lodge. There is a comprehensive activity center which offers everything from diving and snorkeling trips to picnics on the beautiful Pansy Island.

Where is Marlin Lodge?

In a National Marine Park in Mozambique lies an Archipelago of offshore islands known as The Bazaruto Archipelago. There are three main islands known as Margaruque, Benguera and Bazaruto. On the second largest island, Benguera lies the idyllic Marlin Lodge. The island is set amid translucent waters flecked with dhow sails and rich in marine life – an unspoilt paradise for those seeking a haven of peace.

If you’re a bit of an island junkie like me where snorkeling and diving dominate your stay, depending on your experience and expectation, you might be a little disappointed. There is no snorkeling from the beach on any of the Benguerra properties, so a 30 min boat ride to “The Aquarium” on two-mile reef is required.  The snorkeling here is extremely impressive, and some of the best corals I have ever seen, so definitely worth the trip. The Aquarium and two mile reef are not far from Pansy Island, which makes for a great picnic spot, and I would highly recommend both snorkeling and Pansy Island, bearing in mind that they do come at an additional cost.

Marlin Lodge main area

Marlin Lodge has a total of 19 en-suite chalets that stretch along the beach of Flamingo Bay. Each sea-facing chalet has a private patio with a walkway down to the sandy white beach. The wood-reed-and-thatch chalets are a blend of elegance and African Island beauty. Decorated with a hue of creams, browns, and slight blues, the chalets reflect luxury and essential comfort. Drift into a slumber listening to the lap of waves and the breath of trade winds in the palms.

Enjoy several water activities here

There are numerous dive sites around Bazaruto, but we chose Two Mile Reef as it is reported to be one of the best. Conditions were not the greatest, however the variety of fish and corals where impressive, but it was by no means some of the best diving to be had. If diving is your primary activity, I would probably be inclined to suggest an alternative accommodation. If lying on a beach, or next too the pool sipping cocktails is deemed to be your activity of choice without feeling like you are trapped in a massive holiday resort, then you will feel right at home at Marlin Lodge.

A beach barbeque under the African sky is hard to beat, but what makes Marlin Lodge particularly special is the people, and it is the staff that make up the bulk of any experience.

Private dining on the beach

The rooms at Marlin Lodge are certainly not going to win any style awards and do not compete with the more expensive offerings of their neighboring property Azura, but they are well appointed, clean and offer both great value for money and an excellent alternative, should your budget not stretch quite as far. All rooms open directly onto the beach, however it is important to note that there are no baths or private plunge pools, although there is a large public pool in the main lodge area.

Luxury and comfort meet

Bearing in mind we had just arrived from Royal Malewane (read about our trip here), which offered up a culinary masterpiece, despite the appointment of a new chef, I quickly realised that one wouldn’t visit Marlin Lodge just for the food. When unable to cut my fish with a fish knife, my waiter politely brought me over a steak knife and said, “This will probably work better”. Needless to say the fish was returned to kitchen, but overall the food was pretty decent, and the kitchen team was very accommodating. After all, you can have a good meal anywhere, but nowhere else could match this setting.

Final Word

All in all, Marlin Lodge is a great beach complement to a Kruger safari, for anyone that simply wants to relax, and possibly take in a bit of snorkeling or diving. Ideal for both honeymooners and families alike, I would rate Marlin Lodge a solid 3 out 5 Rhinos on the Rhino Rating.

What impressed me most were the people and the lodge’s commitment to social responsibility. Marlin Lodge is actively involved with the community that lives on the Island and has recently teamed up with the Endangered Wildlife Trust to protect the remaining Dugongs in the area by teaching responsible fishing.

Enjoy a spot of snorkelling

The most important aspect of booking any safari or beach holiday comes down to understanding the guest’s requirement, and matching these requirements to the most suitable product. At Rhino Africa we are both Destination and Product Experts, so be sure to contact one of our Expert Travel planners to discuss your holiday requirements to be assured that you get the very best from your African vacation.

Getting to Marlin Lodge

Travelling to Marlin Lodge is generally undertaken by air. From Johannesburg International Airport it is a 2 hour flight to Vilanculos in Mozambique. It is also possible to fly from Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMIA) situated near Nelspruit which allows you to combine a stay with a safari in the Kruger.


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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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