So you’re heading to the Zulu Kingdom for a holiday? The first thing you need to arm yourself with is this list of the Horny Grazer’s favourite Durban restaurants. There’s a little something for every occasion whether you’re after fine dining or a cheap and cheerful, authentic curry. We’ve also tried to spread the love geographically, so these 10 gems are not all, strictly speaking, in Durban, but stretch from the centre of town to the Midlands and North Coast.
Bel Punto
1 South Beach Road, Umdhloti Beach, Umhdloti Centre
A firm favourite for long, languid and inevitably boozy Sunday lunches. Stylish yet casual and classy, Bel Punto is a modern, family-run, authentic Italian restaurant. The service is top notch and the wine list is extensive. My favourite starters are the Calamari Riepieni and the Crab Soup. For mains, you might like to try the Prawns Padella or a delicious T-Bone Fiorentina. And don’t forget about Mamma’s Tiramisu. Certainly not the cheapest spot in Durban, but it really is a special treat and one of the few decent places with a great sea view.
Tel: 031 568 2407
Web: https://www.belpunto.co.za/
Ile Maurice
9 McCausland Crescent, Umhlanga Rocks
Robert is a suave and sophisticated Mauritian (not Martian). The Silver Fox to beat all silver foxes. He and his attractive and knowledgeable team will charm you out of pocket with an array of delicately flavoured Creole dishes. First timers need to try the Crab Gratin to start. Top of the suggestions for mains are the aubergine based crayfish curry, the fillet en croute and the sweet and meaty langoustines. Sommelier Francois is one of the best in the business, so be sure to take some advice. His latest tips are the 2009 Fryer’s Cove Bamboes Bay Sauvignon Blanc and the Klein Constantia 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. Charming, elegant and romantic, this is a place for special occasions – get a table on the covered deck if you can.
Tel: 031 561 7609
Marco Paulo
Shop 3 Accord House, 2 Golf Course Drive Mount Edgecombe
Marco and Paul (see what they’ve done there) run this treat of a restaurant on the outskirts of the exclusive Mount Edgecombe Golf Estate. After a leisurely 9 holes (or not), sit back and relax at one of Durban’s most consistent restaurants. It’s perhaps not the most picturesque of locations, but the vibe is fantastic, the service is friendly and efficient and the food is absolutely delicious. And it’s pretty reasonably priced as well. Yummy starters include the Brinjal Three Ways and the Crispy Phyllo Prawns with Asian Tartar. For mains I always recommend going with their specials – they do fantastic pork, prawns and steak as well as scrumptious line fish. The wine list is great and there’s a healthy selection of artisanal beers as well. The food is pretty rich on the whole, so it’s an excellent choice for a hearty winter’s eve feast.
Tel: 031 502 2221
Web: https://www.marcopaulo.co.za
Craft
35 Newport Avenue, Durban 4001
Think Swiss skiing chalet with splashes of Ru Paul lipstick colours and chalk boards. Writer and food fanatic Neil Roake has created a fun, modern Italian restaurant with his trademark artisanal flair. The wine list is pretty limited but the menu is interesting, with favourites including the oxtail ravioli and the risotto cakes with dipping sauce. Some of the seafood options are served steamed in the bag, while meat turns on the grill in the open-plan kitchen. The pizzas are all named after saints, and the pizza oven in the main ‘church’ of the restaurant adds warmth on a chilly winter’s night (although Durban doesn’t really do winter – when temperatures plummet to 18 degrees celsius the locals start scrambling for their furs and long johns).
Tel: 031 562 1951
For lunch you might want to try Neil Roake’s other restaurant, the Freedom Cafe, at the Concierge in town.
Cafe 1999
Silvervause Centre, 117 Silverton Road, 4001 Durban
Trendy, vibey and whole lot of fun. Owners Sean and Marcelle inject an infectious dose of energy into this longstanding Durban favourite, where contemporary Mediterranean cuisine is designed around sharing. Highlights of the starters/titbits include sesame and prawn lollies dipped in sweet chilli and served with coriander mayo and the signature calamatas, stuffed with ricotta, crumbed and deep-fried. Mains are available in titbit size or bigbit size so really you can approach this as a tapas style meal or a traditional 3 courser. Whatever floats your boat. For the herbivores, try the home-made gnocchi tossed in Gorgonzola and walnut sauce with caramelised butternut while the carnivores will enjoy the fillet of beef, grilled and layered with camembert, rocket and an onion marmalade and served over a chardonnay risotto. But wait. There’s more. Upstairs is a fantastic bar/brasserie called Unity managed by the indefatigable Guy Woods (of former Bean Bag Bohemia fame) – wooden floors, funky music and hip design. You may not leave the Silvervause Centre sober.
Tel: 031 202 3406
Web: www.cafe1999.co.za
The Prawn Shack
It’s complicated – just Google it: https://www.shak.co.za/maps
A unique experience best enjoyed slightly inebriated and with a big bunch of mates. It’s a rustic, flip-flop clad and drawn out affair and it’s pretty far off the beaten track, so best to plan a little in advance. Just over 110km North of Durban on the stunning Amatikulu beach, you can enjoy an 8 course meal among the sand dunes, next to the old prawn farm, far from the madding crowd… Prawns are served up in all shapes, sizes and guises from a large buffet and you’ll even get to try some Zulu Sushi (beef). Mill about upstairs and downstairs with a beer in hand while you avoid the tequilas that contain, well you guessed it… prawns.
Tel: 031 466 6100
Web: https://www.shak.co.za/
Impulse By The Sea
Tinley Manor Beach, KZN North Coast
It’s rather rough around the edges, but after 20 years, Impulse is the ultimate Indian restaurant. Subtly kitsch decor, soft and off-key Indian instrumentals, warm hospitality and – most – importantly – mouth-watering curries served in traditional brass and copper kadais create the complete Indian experience. The prawn curry is sensational so we suggest booking a table on the sun-deck, gazing out to sea… and getting curried away.
Tel: 032 554 4626
Hartford House
Hlatikulu Road, Mooi River
The Gosses, owners of Hartford House, humbly refer to themselves as “custodians of one of Africa’s most treasured legacies”. While this restaurant is consistently in South Africa’s Top 10, I’d really recommend making a weekend of it. What better way to enjoy a fine meal than with a stay over so that you can simply amble home and roll into bed. And these are some pretty special beds. I had to scrape my jaw off the floor when inspecting the four Lakeside Suites – each freestanding building is unique in shape and design. The deputy Prime Minister, Colonel Richards, established the world-renowned Summerhill Stud on the property so you can witness the preparation of champion race horses and view the champion stallions going about their paces. Horse-back rides are arranged for experienced riders otherwise just kick back with a spot of trout-fishing, or unwind with a massage. One of my favourite spots in the country. Just go.
Tel: 033 – 263 2713
Web: www.hartford.co.za
The Cooking Bear
55 Caversham Rd (15 minutes from Howick)
Ssssshhhhh. Nobody knows about the Cooking Bear – it’s our little secret ok? Expect contemporary country dishes, retro classics and flavours of the East in this charming and intimate restaurant set in a beautiful English-style garden in the heart of the KZN Midlands. It’s a bit of a drive from Durban so we suggest making a weekend of your trip to the Midlands where you can meander from chocolate shops to cheesemongers while quenching your thirst on some local beers and wines (the beers are better than the wines).
Tel: 083 326 4932
Web: https://www.cookingbear.co.za/
9th Avenue Bistro
2 Avonmore Centre, 9th Avenue, Morningside, Durban
Consistently regarded as one of Durban’s best restaurants, 9th Avenue Bistro isn’t going to win any awards for views or location. Which means the food needs to be pretty damn special. And it is. So is the service. Showcasing fresh seasonal cuisine, the menu is constantly evolving and the six course tasting menu is a highlight. The wine list changes regularly and concentrates on smaller boutique wineries offering some of SA’s finest, as well as many affordable options. It’s a good option if you’re looking to impress.
Tel: 031 312 9134
Web: https://www.9thavenuebistro.co.za/
Fish
Shop 79 Protea Mall, Ridge Road, Umhlanga Rocks
Here’s another restaurant that I wasn’t going to share with you for fear of not getting a table there myself, but really Fish is too good not to share. ‘Cheap & Cheerful’ is its middle name. It’s the sort of restaurant that should be mandatory in every seaside town – a small, simple, laid-back diner come fishmonger where it’s all about the fish. Grab a table and order fresh Tuna, Dorado, Swordfish, Steenbras, Kingklip, Rockcod, Reds, Barracuda, Snoek or Hake – whatever has been freshly caught. Have it grilled or fried with chips or salad. Or have the fish filleted, seasoned and spiced for you to cook at home. The wine selection is limited, but what’s there is great – you’ll even find the Fryer’s Cove Sauvignon Blanc which is the perfect companion. Remember – you heard it here first…
Tel: 031 561 2912
Web: https://www.fishumhlanga.co.za/
For an aperitif or post-prandial digestif, look no further then the Oyster Box Hotel (featured in the image above) and its Lighthouse Bar – the ultimate setting for a bottle of bubbly overlooking the Indian Ocean. Now if you’ll excuse me, all this talk has made me rather hungry…
Do you agree with the Horny Grazer? Tell us which is your favourite KZN restaurant…
Craft Trattoria & the Freedom Cafe. Neil Roake has it down! Time for a weekend in Durban.
The only one I’ve eaten at on the list is Bel Punto…and I do agree, gorgeous views and food
@rhinoafrica thanks for props!
THE OLIVE GARDEN RESTAURANT in Assagay kicks arse for rustic no pretentions cooking. The chef and owner knows how to make your plate look good wihtout a hundred little dots of puree, a trend which has now had its day as far as I’m concerned. Their food reminds me of Carluccio’s approach and our family are there every Sunday for their roast lunch which is unbeatable! I think they’re on facebook but I’ve also seen them advertise in the Get It magazine. They are situated in a beautiful nursery, so no staring at other peoples motor vehicles whilst you eat. Truly terrific, I’m almost sad to write this, as its our hidden gem.