October 15

Mana Pools National Park – Adventurous Safari-Lover’s Best-Kept Secret

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By Matthew Sterne on October 15, 2015

In the north of Zimbabwe, on the border with Zambia, lies the Kariba Dam. To the west of the dam is the Upper Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, to the east lies the Lower Zambezi and Mana Pools National Park. Over millennia, the Zambezi that flows through the Lower Zambezi Valley created islands, channels and sandbanks. Small ox-bow lakes formed surrounded by lush vegetation and tall forests of mahogany, wild figs, ebonies and baobabs. These lakes gave the national park its name. Mana means ‘four’ in the local Shona language. With ‘Long Pool’ the largest of the four pools, extending some six kilometres in a west-east direction.


WILDLIFE

Mana Pools is one of the most remote reserves in Africa with the region attracting many large animals in search of water, making it one of Africa’s most renowned game-viewing regions. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has Zimbabwe’s biggest concentration of hippopotamuses and crocodiles as well as large dry season mammal populations of elephant and buffalo.

Other animals can regularly be seen on the river terraces such as eland, buffalo, impala, waterbuck, baboons, monkeys, zebra and warthog. These animals come out to eat the fallen Albida fruit, a tree that is synonymous with Mana Pools. Lions, leopards, spotted hyaena and cheetah are present in the area, but their elusive nature makes them difficult to find. Despite this, it is not often that a visitor leaves Mana Pools without seeing at least one of these predators.

Zambezi river hippos in Mana Pools
Image credit: Mana Pools National Park

PARK SURROUNDINGS

Mana Pools’ area is 2,196 km² but is part of the much larger (10,500 km²) Parks and Wildlife Estate that runs from the Kariba Dam to the Mozambique border. This large area has no fences and the wildlife is free to move throughout the area – even northwards across the Zambezi River into Zambia, where there are other large wilderness areas set aside for wildlife conservation. The Lower Zambezi National Park faces Mana Pools from the Zambian side. Both of these parks have spectacular views of the mountains and the Rift Valley Escarpment.


OUR EXPERIENCE

A standing elephant at Mana Pools
Image credit: Vince O’Sullivan

Recently the widely-travelled Billy Hare visited the National Park and was struck by the beauty and uniqueness of the park.

“I had a picture in my head because I have a lot of Zimbabwean friends who always talk about Mana Pools. The picture was of elephants standing on their back feet picking the seed pods off the Albida trees. An Albida forest is a type of Acacia tree that you find mainly on the banks of the Zambezi River. There are beautiful Albida forests in Mana Pools, and because they’re so tall the canopies are high off the ground so you can see for miles underneath them. You can see elephants two or three km away and they’re in dappled shade, there will be animals grazing underneath them, it’s really quite beautiful.”

Billy stayed at the well-run and authentically African lodge, Ruckomechi.  “We went out on to the river on a motor launch for sunset cruises and saw loads of hippos, crocodiles, water birds and a carmine bee-eater colony, which was absolutely amazing. They’re very beautiful and it’s a photographer’s dream. They’re not found very easily but at Ruckomechi, the nesting sites in the river banks are very accessible and you can get right up close by boat. Generally speaking, on a three or four-day trip, you will see most of what there is to see.

carmine bee-eater colony
Image credit: Claudio e Lucia

“At this time of year there are fires everywhere, the local farmers burn the dead grass to encourage new growth. It’s very hazy regardless of whether there are fires or not but with the smoke it’s even more hazy and the sunsets were intensely red and dramatic and the most beautiful thing ever. I’ve been on many safaris, and it’s always amazing, but it really felt like I discovered something brand new. The place is magical and very different to anywhere that I’ve ever been.”


ACTIVITIES

    • Canoeing – a famous activity for the Lower Zambezi area and a great way to see the valley.
    • Game drives within the concession or National Park.
    • Guided walks – the undergrowth here is often sparse, so the land is perfect for walking safaris.
    • Tiger/ bream fishing (catch & release).
    • Sunset cruises on a motorised pontoon.

WHEN TO VISIT

During the rains, from January to March, the lodges here are closed and most of the big game animals move away from the river and into the escarpment. They start returning to the riverine areas from around April, as the pools in the bush dry up. The lodges are generally open until the middle of November, but by the middle of October it is too hot for comfortable travel and is referred to by locals as suicide month!


LODGES

an elephant walks near the deck
Image credit: Ruckomechi Camp

Ruckomechi Camp occupies a stunning setting, nestled under a grove of acacia and mahogany trees and facing out onto the green Zambezi River. Guests are spoiled with a relaxed library and lounge area that takes in this view, as well as the central dining area and bar. The main areas are linked to the tented suites by wooden walkways that blend seamlessly into the bush.

Accommodation comes in the form of ten tented suites, each with wonderful views of the Zambezi flowing serenely past on its voyage towards Mozambique. Each tent has an en-suite bathroom, indoor and outdoor shower, fan and mosquito net, and opens out onto a veranda that is ideal for whiling the days away, and enjoying a spot of armchair game viewing. Bonus: go in search of the camp’s secluded ‘bath-with-a-view’ for an extra-special experience.


Kanga Bush Camp's outdoor dining deck at Mana Pools
Image credit: Mana Pools National Park

Kanga Bush Camp is not called an explorer’s paradise for nothing. Located deep within a private concession of Mana Pools, the camp focuses on the concept of a ‘private safari’ where you’ll be able to track wildlife on foot, and get closer to the animals than you’ve ever imagined. The 12-bedded camp is built around a watering hole called the Kanga Pan, which is the only permanent source of water in the area and thus acts as a main attraction for the surrounding wildlife.

Tents are comfortably furnished in a large walk-in Meru-style. You’ll have an en-suite bathroom, outdoor bucket showers with flushing toilets and private verandas overlooking the activity surrounding the waterhole. The central relaxing lounge is also the dining area, where you will enjoy great home cooked meals with other guests, rangers and guides.


Zambezi Life Styles - drinks by the river bank
Image credit: Zambezi Expeditions

The tents of Zambezi Life Styles give guests easy access to the Zambezi affording canoeing excursions on the river or fishing for the sharp-toothed tigerfish from the banks and island in the middle of the Zambezi. Ramble along the flood plain in search of big game, or track wildlife on foot, possible crossing paths with elephant, buffalo, wild dog, eland, and lion.

Zambezi Life Styles redefines ‘Glamping’, with its en-suite bathroom facilities – which includes flush toilets and an outdoor hot bucket shower – and detailed furnishings of 12-volt lighting, electronic charging facilities, and extra-length beds. Dine on the banks of the Zambezi River on a delicious three-course meal. A buffet-style lunch allows guest to regroup between game drives.


For more information on how to get there or how this can fit in with a larger itinerary please contact us for a no-strings-attached quote.


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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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