Why I Bring Binoculars to Breakfast: Whale Watching in Hermanus

You’ll hear them before you see them. A low, rumbling pfffsshh as a spout breaks the ocean’s surface. Heads turn, fingers point, and every coffee cup in the café is suddenly forgotten. Welcome to whale watching in Hermanus – where spotting these giant sea-dwellers isn’t a mere activity – it’s a town-wide reflex. And yes, I’ve been that person. Mid-sip, croissant half-eaten, eyes scanning the waves like a caffeine-fuelled marine biologist. And honestly? It never gets old.

How to Get to Hermanus (Penguins Permitting)

Roughly 120km from Cape Town, Hermanus is within easy striking distance – assuming you don’t get sidetracked en route. You could opt for the efficient N2 inland, sure. But if you’re like me, you’ll take the coastal R44 via Clarence Drive, which might just be one of the most underrated drives in South Africa.

Cue a detour to Betty’s Bay, home to a particularly sassy colony of African penguins who treat the boardwalk like a runway. You’ve been warned: allow extra time because waddling has a way of holding up progress.

When to Visit: Whale Watching in Hermanus Season

Here’s the main event: whale watching in Hermanus hits its stride from July to November when southern right and humpback whales roll in like celebrities avoiding the paparazzi. Except they’re show-offs. They breach. They tail-slap. They float just offshore like they know exactly how photogenic they are.

The peak months are August to October when the action ramps up. Walker Bay (just east of Hermanus) becomes the aquatic equivalent of front-row tickets – no binoculars required, though they’re still handy if you want to win the “who spotted it first” game.

And yes, the Hermanus Whale Crier is a real person. You’ll spot him roaming the shoreline, blowing into a kelp horn to alert you of nearby sightings. It’s possibly the most charming public service announcement in the country.

Boat or Bluff? You Choose

I’ve done both – and they each have their moments. Head out by boat and there’s a thrilling sense of chase: eyes darting across the water, crew pointing things out, someone inevitably squealing “THERE!” five seconds too late.

But honestly? Whale watching in Hermanus is so special because it doesn’t require a life jacket. The Hermanus Cliff Path, all 12 kilometres of it, hugs the coastline and offers panoramic whale theatre. I once spent an hour parked on a bench near Grotto Beach, watching a southern right whale and her calf meander below. No rush. No engine. Just me, the wind, and one very chilled baby leviathan.

And When the Whales Take a Breather...

While the marine drama is the main attraction, Hermanus has its share of encore performances...

Wine

I always recommend a post-sighting debrief in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – which loosely translates to “Heaven and Earth” and is exactly where you’ll find some of my favourite wines. Creation, Hamilton Russell, Ataraxia – take your pick; they all pour with flair.

History

I’ve also been surprised by the Old Harbour Museum – it’s not huge, but it tells the story of the town’s maritime history with enough bite to hold your attention (and it’s about two minutes from most whale viewing spots, which helps).

Art

Prefer your galleries indoors? You’re in luck. Hermanus has a healthy obsession with art, and the local galleries reflect it – from contemporary studios to offbeat coastal pieces that look like they were painted mid-swell. It’s very possible to lose an hour (or three) in a gallery crawl between coffee shops.

Food

For food, there’s no shortage of local haunts. I once had a bowl of seafood pasta at Bientang’s Cave that was interrupted – mid-mouthful – by a full whale breach. You’ve never seen someone put down a fork so fast.

Charm

And if you’re extending your stay, Stanford is worth the short drive inland. Antique stores, crumbly heritage buildings, and a river that begs for slow paddling or even slower picnics. It’s one of those places where you blink, and suddenly you’ve bought a hat, a second-hand book, and two jars of artisanal jam.

A Final Word from the Cliff Path

On my last trip, I took my morning coffee down to the rocks near Kwaaiwater. No crowds, no soundtrack – just the distant fsshh of a spout, then a flash of grey and white in the bay. It reminded me why whale watching in Hermanus keeps pulling me back.

Because it’s not just about the whales; it’s about standing still long enough to see something huge rise from the deep. To feel tiny – in the best way possible.

So yes, I bring binoculars to breakfast. And you should, too. Need an excuse to linger by the sea? Let’s make it happen.